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clapotis

The wave pattern established when waves are reflected by a barrier so that the crests and troughs occur alternately in the same places with water particle motion limited to vertical movement, while a quarter wavelength away the particle motion is horizontal (back and forth). This is a standing wave phenomenon.

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  • ed.young
  • (Milwaukee, United States)

  •  (V.I.P) 21084 分数
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